*Driving into Avallon along the River Cousin*

This week brought some visitors. Rick’s high school classmate Dave, who he reconnected with at his 55th reunion in Boston last year, lives with his partner Sue in Puglia, the southeastern tip of Italy. If you remember, we stayed with them for a few days last October and had a marvelous time swimming in the Adriatic Sea off their boat. Our part of the world is quite a contrast, especially this time of year where temperatures at their home are in the high nineties. They were on their way to Sancerre to stay with another friend who has bought a place in the center of town. The friend happens to be the campaign finance director for Elizabeth Warren. I was intrigued to hear that someone in that position would be wanting to get a foothold in France. Dave and Sue stopped on their way and stayed with us for a couple of nights. Of course we were happy for the opportunity to show them around this part of the world. They were impressed with all the green and definitely grateful for our cloudy and cool weather.

*Rick, Dave and Sue at the walls of Vézelay*

We essentially had only one day to tour further afield with our friends, so after discussing the local sites available for an easy day trip, all agreed that Vézelay and environs was our best choice. We threw some food into a picnic basket and hit the road.

It turned out to be a perfect day. There were absolutely no crowds. We practically had the place to ourselves. The weather went from warm to rather cool as the cloud formations covered and uncovered the sun.

The Basilica of Sainte-Marie-Madeleine was built in the mid twelfth century and is considered a masterpiece of Burgundian Romanesque architecture. It was listed as a UNESCO Heritage Site in 1979. Inside the crypt are relics of Mary Magdalene.

Apparently the design of the building has an astronomical dimension as well. At noon on the summer solstice the sunlight coming through the southern windows casts a series of illuminated circles along the longitudinal center of the floor of the nave.

Several monastic orders take residence in Vézelay, including a Franciscan order who occupy a little monastery just outside the walls. Their motto is: Renovate to perpetuate a place of welcome and life as brothers.

The view from the hill of Vézelay, which has been inhabited for several thousand years, is still of green fields, verdant forests and sleppy villages. Time seems to have forgotten these hillsides.

*The rural view from the walls of Vézelay*

I think this is the third or fourth picnic we have had on the walls of this town since the beginning of spring. It is a nice habit to have acquired.

The monastic orders in town offer visitors simple overnight accommodations and meditation retreats. Especially on this day, with the usual crowds somewhere else, I really enjoyed the quiet and peaceful feeling of the site.

*These particular wildflowers seem to be ubiquitous…they grow all over the streets of our own village as well*

I couldn’t help myself from taking a photo of this lovely pink hollyhock blooming right behind the bench where we sat down. When I was a child my grandfather grew hollyhocks in his yard and when I came to visit he would clip off a blossom in full bloom, turn it upside down and then clip a bud and stick it onto the top of the upside down flower skirt, making a beautiful ballerina for me. It is one of those enchanting memories I carry with me.

*Pink hollyhocks always remind me of my grandfather, who was a wonderful person.*

We took a drive through the countryside on our way back home. Unlike for our Italian friends and others throughout the U.S., early summer has not scorched the landscape. The greens still refresh the eyes.

*Village church at the bend of the road*

Across the valley from Vézelay we stopped to look back at the city we had just left with its commanding view and soaring towers.

We stopped at the Vauban bridge and enjoyed the rushing Cure River, still full from recent rains. I love the sheer granite cliffs that soar above the stone bridge.

Our last stop before coming home was the beautiful city of Avallon. This spot has been inhabited since at least Roman times. In the town church are two columns recycled from a Roman temple. Some believe that the Avallon King Arthur mentions is indeed this city. Apparently an English/French war was fought near here in the mid 400s, and some think Arthur fought in that and found the town of special interest.

Tomorrow we leave on a month-long trip to the States. I don’t know how likely it is that I will be able to continue reporting while away from home. We’ll see what happens.

I suppose that we are leaving this green cool valley and heading into the relentless summer sun!

The Countryside Around

Trees and Ocean

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