The South of France, part 1
View of the back side of Les Baux-de-Provence
The South of France is a world unto itself, so unlike the North in landscape, weather and temperament. Traveling there for us is like going to a different country. In early July we made our seventh visit.
We had the opportunity to visit Les Alpilles mountains near St. Remy de Provence. They are so striking in their rugged beauty. The sound of cicadas is ever-present. The scenery always reminds me of the film My Mother's Castle, by Marcel Pagnol, evoking, so nostalgically, his own youth spent in the south.
Our friends Christina and Chuck invited us to come stay with them for a couple of days at a house they have rented several times in the charming town of Paradou, not far from St. Remy de Provence. It happened that we were also on our way down to Aix-en-Provence to see Emily and Co. in early July, so it was perfect timing for us.
Autun
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The drive from our home in Burgundy to Paradou is about 6 hours. It is almost due south. We decided to take some back roads to enjoy the countryside between. I do like discovering new French villages which I find charming and I appreciate the change in topography and architectural style as the miles roll past.
We were surprised to see wisteria blooming in Autun in July
We stopped for lunch in Autun. It was less than half way to our destination, but already the country had become much more hilly. We happened upon a little restaurant on a quiet street near where we found some parking and were very pleased with our good luck in stumbling upon such a charming place called Saint Augustin. It served homemade Moroccan food in a friendly, homey atmosphere. The decor seemed a throw-back to the 1950s.
Oil-cloth tablecloths
After a leisurely lunch, we had a rather long drive ahead of us still, so we picked up the pace. We arrived in Paradou just in time for dinner. We were visiting a house we had heard a great deal about from Chris and Chuck, as this place is almost like a second home to them. It is a magical setting with an amazing history. We felt privileged to be able to finally visit, after all the stories we'd heard about it over the years.
The house sits above the street on its own private parcel of land
The house, is called Le Mas du Vieux Charron, but we refer to it as The Music House. Chris, who I consider one of my best art buddies, also happens to play violin for an orchestra in Portland. She is, suffice it to say, a woman of many talents! When looking to stay somewhere in the area, she stumbled upon this rental. She and Chuck became completely smitten, not least of all by its storied history. The rest, as they say, is history. They've been here many times and know the owner personally by now.
The house was built, presumably, in the 17th century. The exact date is up for debate. The first part of its verifiable history was that it was the home and workshop of the local wheelwright. The back room, an enormous space, was originally a workshop to repair wagons and horse-drawn buggies, in fact any and all forms of transport used before the invention motorized vehicles could and were driven into this room. (A charron was a wheelwright, thus the Vieux Charron.)
Kitchen table corner
I find that in this part of France, the Italian influence is strong. When we first arrived and got the tour, I felt the interiors were right out of an Italian movie set.
Kitchen sink corner
The kitchen is warm and inviting and fun to work in. The door leads directly out onto a covered terrace. where we took our first evening meal. The big kitchen table also makes for a perfect venue for drawing, which Chris is often up to. She really is an inspiration!
Chris keeps up with her travel journals as she goes
The library room is cosy and inviting. It was over 90º while we were there, so the chimney was never lit, of course. I can well imagine, however, in the darkest winter months, the Mistral whistling around the house, enjoying reading by a crackling fire right here. There is a fine library of books, mostly in English, and a vast collection of movies to peruse in this room.
Small library off the kitchen
In 1962, the house was bought by Alexander (Sasha) Schneider, a world-renowned violinist who, with his brother Mischa, played for the Budapest String Quartet and was a conductor, teacher and solo musician during his career. The cartwright workshop thus became a music venue and is now known as The Music Room. Pablo Casals, Isaac Stern, the Guarneri Quartet, Peter Serkin, Jaime Laredo, Sharon Robinson, and others have stayed in the house and performed in this room. It was this space, in fact, which convinced Sasha to purchase the house in the first place.
The large chesterfield, which is more like a bed than a couch, was a gift to Sasha from the Rothschilds. The story goes that Sasha went to visit their family in Deauville and admired this piece of furniture. After coming back home, it arrived at his door as a gift.
Front corner of the music room
On one of the atelier walls is a collage by Saul Steinberg, a personal art hero of mine. He created this piece for a concert given by Sasha and commissioned by the current owner.
Saul Steinberg art
The room called the atelier is connected to the music room by a wonderful glass arched doorway. The current owner, Peter Pastreich who is the retired executive director of the San Francisco Symphony was a friend of Sasha's. The house was offered for sale directly to him. He has said that this offer changed his life. He and his wife Jamie now divide their time between Paradou and San Francisco. The house is therefore very personal, warm, and intimate. One feels more like a guest there than a renter. Jamie, who is an artist, uses the atelier as her studio and Peter uses it as his study.
Atelier, looking through to the music room
So many treasures left about to explore, enjoy and marvel at.
Looking from the music room into the atelier
I particularly loved the downstairs bathroom sink and charming bird tiles.
This seemed so old fashioned in the most complementary
sense.
We were given the master bedroom and bathroom which was very comfortable and luxurious.
Beautifully appointed master bedroom
I was very impressed that even with the intense heat, the garden was flourishing, the grass lush and everything immaculate.
Many flowers were blooming in the garden
There is a nice pool surrounded by what can only be described as a psychedelic hedge. While Rick swam, Chris and Chuck napped, I made a little drawing of the back of the house.
Passing Les Baux de Provence
The evening, with the lights lit in this charming setting and a cool breeze relieving the heat of the passing day, was very romantic indeed.
Maillane
Our adorable host and hostess had discovered L'Oustalet Maianen by chance. What a wonderful restaurant with delicious food, beautifully presented, kindly served. It was an entirely delightful evening.
The ever delightful Chris and Chuck
Everything was a feast for the eyes as well as the palate.
As we drove back to the Mas, the moon was full, Les Baux was gleaming, our hearts were warm and our stomachs were pleasantly satisfied. A wonderful adventure, a beautiful location, cherished friends.
Les Baux lights up the night
Next week I'll take you to Aix-en-Provence.